Mwanza Flat-headed Agama

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The Mwanza Flat-headed Agama or Mwanza Flat-headed Rock Agama (Agama mwanzae) is a species of lizard from the Agamidae family, found in Tanzania, Rwanda, and Kenya.

It can often be seen in the heat of the day basking on rocks or kopjes. The male's head, neck and shoulders are bright red or violet, while the body dark blue. The female is mostly brown and is difficult to distinguish from other female agamas.

This species is often confused with the Red-headed Rock Agama (Agama agama).

The species has become a fashionable pet due to its coloration which resembles the comic book superhero Spider-Man.

Agama species are widely spread throughout areas of Africa. Agamas are most often found in semi -dessert or scrubland environments. The Spiderman agama is relatively new in the U.S. pet trade and is proving to be very popular due to its intense red and blue coloration and overly active personality.

Scientific name : Agama mwanzae

Common name : Mwanza Flat-headed Agama

Housing Size : 36 inches x 18 inches x 18 inches bare minimum

Housing Type : semi -dessert or scrubland

Adult Size : Up to 6 - 9 inches

Level Of Difficulty : Moderate to Difficult

Life Span : Up to 15 years

Diet : Insectivores

Housing

House Spiderman agamas in groups of 1.3 and during breeding season should introduce a second male to see if a roll of dominance helps with the captive breeding of this species . It seems that the dominant male will color up intensely and to this interaction seems to help stimulate breeding. House agamas in a terrarium measuring 36 x 18 x 18.Use lots of branches for climbing and basking as well as cork hollows to escape from the heat and for hiding spaces .

Diet and nutrition

Feed a wide variety of insects including crickets mealworms and roaches .Dust insects several times a week with a calcium and multivitamin. Use reptile cal calcium w d3 and reptile cal herptavite as supplements. Make sure to feed your crickets a high quality cricket feed such as nature zones cricket total bites to ensure proper gut loading of your insects.

Water and humidity

Provide a clean shallow water bowl at all times. Although considered a dessert animal we have found that my Spiderman Agamas drink an unusual amount of water in comparison to other dessert lizards. Mist agamas enclosure each morning simulating morning dew allowing the agamas to lap up water off the glass enclosure and cage furnishings.

Size and longevity

Spiderman agamas reach an average length of 6 - 9 inches with females usually being smaller. Agama species have been known to be kept in captivity for as long as fifteen years if housed and maintained properly.

Handling

Due to the fact that these are extremely quick lizards only minimal handling is recommended. Use caution when cleaning the cage to prevent animals from escaping!! They are fast!!!

Sexing

Like most agama species the males are vividly colored with reds blues and violets giving this amazing creature its common name. Females are usually smaller and not as vibrantly colored which make it difficult to determine from other species of female agamas.

article source :

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Agama_mwanzae

http://lllreptile.com/info/library/animal-care-sheets/lizards-and-monitors/-/spiderman-agama/

http://www.churpchurp.com/SivLOTD/share/nescafe-chilllah

Male

Female

Argentine Black and White Tegu

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The Argentine black and white tegu, Tupinambis merianae, is the largest lizard on best pet list. It is important to note that adult tegus require more space than the average owner is willing to provide, but if that isn't an issue for you then a tegu might be a great choice as a pet lizard.

Tegus are one of the smartest reptiles, able to learn simple tricks and to respond to the sound of their names. Typically calm, tegus properly socialized from a young age can learn to walk on a harness and be handled with great frequency.

It should be noted that there are multiple tegu species; Columbian tegus are NOT recommended as a good pet lizard. These black and white cousins are often aggressive and difficult to care for.

Scientific name : Tupinambis merianae

Common name : Argentine Black and White Tegu

Housing Size : 6 feet x 3 feet x 2 feet

Housing Type : Tropical rain forests

Adult Size : Up to 4 feet

Level Of Difficulty : Easy to moderate

Life Span : Up to 10 - 15 years

Diet : Omnivorous

Housing

Due to their large size, Argentinian black and white tegus need a large secure enclosure. Juveniles can be kept in a large aquarium with a locking lid, but adults will need a larger specialty or custom built cage. For adults, plan on at least 6 feet by 3 feet by 2 feet tall (tall cages not necessary for tegus). A hide should be provided at either end of the temperature gradient, and keeping the hide slightly damp can help with shedding.

Substrate

Tegus like to burrow, and need a substrate that is absorbent and easy to clean. Cypress mulch, orchid bark or eucalyptus mulch are the preferred substrates, although some people prefer the convenience of several layers of paper (although this prevents the natural instinct to dig). Avoid wood chips, corn cob or gravel due to the risk of ingestion. Indoor/outdoor carpeting is likely to get shredded in digging attempts and the stray threads can pose a risk of entangling nails/toes.

Size and Appearance

The Argentinian black and white tegu can reach an adult size of 4 feet or even longer (including the tail). They have a fairly distinctive pattern of white and black dots and stripes over the entire body.

Diet

Juvenile tegus can be fed a diet largely composed of crickets (dusted with a calcium/vitamin supplement) along with some other feeder insects for variety. As they get older the can be fed pinky mice, and eventually adult mice (frozen, prekilled). Adult argentinian black and white tegus can have a variety of fruits and vegetables added to their diet. Canned dog food and eggs can also be offered as an occasional supplement. Feed in a bowl or with tongs to prevent accidentally getting bitten.

Water

Argentinian black and white tegus enjoy soaking, so provide a large shallow water dish. Provide fresh water frequently.

Light and Heat

Argentinian black and white tegus are diurnal and need exposure to full spectrum UVA and UVB lighting. While it is true that tegus can tolerate cooler temperatures, for proper health and digestion, daytime temperatures should be maintained at 80-85 F (27-30 C) with a basking spot at 100-110 F (38-43 C). Cooler nightime temperatures are fine. Use lamps and heat mats, and avoid hot rocks.

Temperament

Despite its large size, the Argentinian black and white tegu enjoys a reputation as being quite docile and tame (much more so than other tegus). This is especially true of those that are handled regularly from a young age.

Article source :

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Argentine_Black_and_White_Tegu

http://bestpetlizard.com/

http://exoticpets.about.com/od/lizardsaspets/p/argtegu.htm

http://www.churpchurp.com/SivLOTD/share/nescafe-chilllah

Red Ackie, Spiny-tailed monitor

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Varanus acanthuras, or the "ackie" as it is more commonly called, is also known as the ridge-tailed lizard and spiny-tailed lizard. This small monitor is a true dwarf and is an ideal captive with very straightforward care requirements. If you are looking for a pet monitor this lizard is for you!

Beautifully colored and with the look of little dragons, these active lizards are fun to watch and care for. Ackies can be held on a daily basis and usually tame very well. Ackies can be fed every other day and will accept a variety of foods including crickets and pinky mice.

Scientific name : Varanus acanthuras

Common name : Red Ackie, Spiny-tailed monitor

Housing Size : 55 gallon tank or equivalent

Housing Type : Rocky ranges and outcrops

Adult Size : 16-26 inches

Level Of Difficulty : Easy to Moderate

Life Span : Up to 10 years

Diet : Insectivores, small mammal (pinkie)

Diagnosis

The spiny-tailed monitor, a medium-sized monitor lizard, can attain a total length of up to 70 cm. The tail is about 1,3-2,3 times longer than head and body. The upper side is a rich, dark brown and painted with bright yellowish to cream spots, which often enclose a few dark scales. Its tail is round in section and features very spinose scales. There are 70-115 scales around the middle of the body. The spiny-tailed monitor is distinguished from the similar-looking species V. baritji and V. primordius by the presence of pale longitudinal stripes on the neck.

Distribution and habitat

This arid-adapted lizard is found in northern Western Australia, in the Northern Territory and in the eastern and northeastern parts of Queensland. The spiny-tailed monitor inhabits arid areas, and is associated with rocky ranges and outcrops.

Housing

Bigger is always better when it comes to monitor enclosures. There are minimums that should be followed however. The enclosure should be twice as long as the monitors length and as wide as the monitor is long. So for adult Ackies the minimum size enclosure should be 4 feet long x 2 feet wide x 2 feet high. If you have room for a larger enclosure it will not go to waste. If you have the room you may go higher as Ackies are partly arboreal and will climb if given the opportunity. Ackies are very active and will put any available space to good use. Also the larger the enclosure the more available temperature and humidity gradients there will be for your Ackies to choose from. Remember that Ackies have a quick growth rate so plan for that large enclosure ahead of time.

Substrate

Keep in mind that for monitors substrate is an important part of husbandry. No linoleum here. The best substrate to use is plain old dirt. Some Ackie owners mix in a bit of sand as well trying to create a sandy loam. The best soil to use is the type you dig up yourself. It should be extracted from an area that is free of pesticide and fertilizer use. Agriculture fields are not a good source. Other than that it may be purchased in bag form from a garden center. However the black soil tends to dry out rather quickly. Make sure here as well that it contains no growing additives, usually the cheaper the better. Maintaining a level of moisture in the substrate is important for holding burrows as well as for insuring complete sheds. Not doing this could cause loss of toes or tails from retained dead skin.

Hydrating

There are two ways to ensure your Ackies are hydrated properly. One is to soak them weekly in warm water. The depth should be no higher than the shoulder, so their heads can be held above the water. This should not be done with babies. Rather put them in a container with soaking wet paper towels. Another way which is probably more natural is a heavy misting a few times a week. Regularly hydrating your Ackie will greatly aid in ridding the toes of those stuck sheds.

Diet

In short, crickets, pinkie mice, superworms, mealworms, silkworms and ground turkey. There are some that feed canned dog food but this usually leads to loose stools. Whole prey is a much better choice. Crickets should make up the bulk of the diet especially for hatchlings. Mice and ground turkey should only be offered once a week. I suggest feeding pre-killed mice. There is a certain thrill I guess to be had by watching your Ackie kill, but live appropriately sized mice for Ackies is usually hard to find. Once they like live they might not want anything else. So don't make things hard on yourself. Other exotic foods are often offered as well. Like crustaceans, goldfish and other hard to get insects. These have the same problem as feeding live mice. What are you going to do when your Ackie gets hooked on a specialty food source and you can't get it out of season? Keep it simple with the previously mentioned diet and your Ackie will have all the nutrition they need. Meals should be supplemented with a vitamin D3 enriched mineral supplement nearly every feeding.

Article source :

http://bestpetlizard.com/

http://www.reptileuv.com/reptile-caresheets/ackie.php

http://www.churpchurp.com/SivLOTD/share/nescafe-chilllah

Blue Tongue Skink

Introduction.

Blue-tongued skinks comprise the Australasian genus, Tiliqua, which contains some of the largest members of the skink family (Scincidae). They are commonly called blue-tongued lizards or simply blue-tongues in Australia. As suggested by these common names, a prominent characteristic of the genus is a large blue tongue that can be bared as a bluff-warning to potential enemies.

Systematics and Distribution

Blue-tongued skinks are closely related to the genera Cyclodomorphus and Hemisphaeriodon. All species are found on mainland Australia with the exception of Tiliqua gigas which occurs in New Guinea and various islands of Indonesia. One subspecies of Tiliqua scincoides is also found on several small Indonesian islands between Australia and New Guinea. Tiliqua nigrolutea is the only species present in Tasmania. With the exception of the pygmy blue-tongue, they are relatively large lizards (up to 37 cm total length), light-bodied, short-limbed, broad with a distinct head and dull teeth.

Ecology

Most species are diurnal ground-foraging omnivores, feeding on a wide variety of insects, gastropods, flowers, fruits and berries. The pygmy blue-tongue is again the exception, being primarily an ambush predator of terrestrial arthropods. All are viviparous, with litter sizes ranging from 1-4 in the pygmy blue-tongue and shingleback to 5-24 in the eastern and northern blue-tongues.

Species and subspecies

• Tiliqua adelaidensis, (Adelaide) Pygmy Blue-tongued Skink
• Tiliqua gigas, Indonesian Blue-tongued Skink
  • Tiliqua gigas evanescens, Merakue Blue-tongued Skink
  • Tiliqua gigas keyensis, Key Island Blue-tongued Skink
• Tiliqua sp., Irian Jaya Blue-tongued Skink
• Tiliqua multifasciata, Centralian Blue-tongued Skink
• Tiliqua nigrolutea, Blotched Blue-tongued Skink
• Tiliqua occipitalis, Western Blue-tongued Skink
• Tiliqua rugosa, Shingleback (or Sleepy Lizard)
  • Tiliqua rugosa rugosa, Common Shingleback
  • Tiliqua rugosa aspera, Eastern Shingleback
  • Tiliqua rugosa palarra, Shark Bay Shingleback
  • Tiliqua rugosa konowi, Rottnest Island Shingleback
• Tiliqua scincoides, Australian Blue-tongued Skink
  • Tiliqua scincoides scincoides, Eastern Blue-tongued Skink
  • Tiliqua scincoides intermedia, Northern Blue-tongued Skink
  • Tiliqua scincoides chimaerea, Tanimbar Blue-tongued Skink

Scientific name : Tiliqua nigrolutea

Common name : Blue tongue skink

Housing Size : 48" x 24" x 24"

Housing Type : Forest and field, semi-deserts

Adult Size : 7" to 24"

Care/Keeping : Keep singularly, as a pair or in a group with only one male.

Level Of Difficulty : Easy to Moderate

Life Span : Up to 20 years

Diet : Omnivorous

Housing

Hatchlings can be kept in 10 gal. Adults require at minimum 40-55 gal tanks; these lizards are wide-ranging inthe wild and so do better in much larger enclosures. Substrate can be clean dust-free pine (not cedar) shavings, aspen shavings or cypress mulch. Most prefer snug hides, so hide boxes, rock caves or half logs will be needed.

While these are ground dwelling lizards, they do have to clamber over things to get their relatively large bodies over things with their outlandishly tiny legs and feet. Many seem to enjoy the exploration and exercise climbing over and through things gives them, so providing different levels of branches and logs for them to climb on will make for better adjusted lizards. This also means that top-opening tanks need to be securely fastened, and open-top tanks need to be deep enough to prevent the skink from climbing out.

One area of slightly damp substrate should be kept, or a humidity retreat box (into which they can freely climb in and out, filled with damp sphagnum moss or a loosely piled damp towel, for use during shed periods).

Water

They should have a bowl of water available at all times. They may defecate in it so it should be checked regularly. Bowl should be big enough for them to climb easily in and out of if it is to be used for bathing.

Light

Regular exposure to UVB wavelengths are strongly recommended. This can be furnished by close proximity to a Vita-Lite or Zoo Med Iguana or Reptisun fluorescent lights (5.0+) or direct sunlight. If using the latter, be sure that there is a cooler retreat for the skink to go to. They do not tolerate very high temperatures and can easily become prostrate by the buildup of heat in their enclosure.

Temperature

The overall gradient should range from the mid 70s on the cool side to the mid 80s on the warm side. A warmer basking area, with temps well into the 90s, must also be provided during the day. Depending on the type of skink and its place of origin, some will do better with basking areas into the low 100s, while others need basking temps in the low to mid 90s. Observe your lizard for signs of temperature related stress, and adjust accordingly.

A people heating pad under the tank at one end, and a radiant heat source overhead at the same end, will generally be all that is required to establish the necessary gradient. Cold winter weather outside will require additional heating or a stronger bulb in the enclosure. Temps should not be allowed to fall below 70 F at night on the cool side.

Diet

Blue-tongues are omnivores, consuming both plant and animal matter. Their diet should be about 60% plant and 40% animal. A basic mixed vegetable salad can be prepared similar to that fed to green iguanas. Along with the salad, thinly sliced greens (collards, dandelion, escarole) can be mixed into the mixed vegetables.

Hatchling skinks can be started on mealworms, redworms, small crickets, and pinkie mice. As they grow, increase the size of the prey (small earthworms, Zoophoba larvae and pupae, fuzzies and crews).

Handling

Blue-tongue skinks are very docile, curious lizards. They tame easily and are handleable by careful small children. They do develop claws, and while they don't particularly scratch, it can be startling and scary to someone who is nervous holding them, so always supervise people closely when first handing the lizard to them. Like many omnivorous and carnivorous lizards, blue-tongues find that wriggling human fingers look an awful lot like small wriggling mice...and may try to eat one if they are hungry. As with all such reptiles, it is best to wash your hands before handling them if you have been handling anything they normally eat.

Article source :

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Blue-tongued_skink

http://www.anapsid.org/bluetong.html

http://www.churpchurp.com/SivLOTD/share/nescafe-chilllah

Bearded Dragons

Introduction.

Pogona are a genus of lizards containing seven species, which are often known by the common name bearded dragons. The term "bearded dragon" is most commonly used to describe the Central Bearded Dragon. Members of this genus live in the arid, rocky, semi-desert regions and dry open woodlands of Australia. They are adept climbers, spending time on branches and in bushes, even found on fence posts when living near human habitation. Pogona bask on rocks and exposed branches in the mornings and afternoons. The species are found throughout Australia.

Several species of this genus have been domesticated, especially Pogona vitticeps and are often kept as pets or exhibited.

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Scientific name : Pogona Vitticeps

Common name : Bearded Dragon

Housing Size : 48" x 24" x 24"

Housing Type : Desert

Adult Size : Total Length 22"

Care/Keeping : Keep singularly, as a pair or in a group with only one male.

Level Of Difficulty : Easy to Moderate

Life Span : Up to 10 years

Diet : Omnivorous

Description

Bearded Dragons now come in a variety of morphs including such colours as normal browns, tan, orange to red, sand fires, pale pastels and even snow colours. I myself would rank the Bearded Dragon as amongst one of the most enjoyable and easy to handle pet reptiles that anyone could have the pleasure in owning.

Baby Inland Bearded Dragons are no more than 4 inches in length when born, whereas an adult dragon can typically reach up to 22 inches. Bearded Dragons are social animals and a pair consisting of a male and a female closely matched in size is an ideal combination. Although they can also be kept singularly as well as in groups, if kept in a group they should only be one male to several females. This obviously is all dependent on the size of the housing / enclosure.

Housing

Bearded Dragons are moderately sized but as they grow will eventually require a large enclosure. When choosing your vivarium, this can be looked at in two different ways. Firstly, if purchasing a baby Bearded Dragon, this can be housed in a smaller vivarium such as a 36" x 15" x 15", however as your dragon attains a larger size you will need to upgrade to a more suitably sized vivarium i.e. a (48" x 24" x 24") or (72" x 18" x 18") or similar. These sizes suitable enough to house a pair of adult Bearded Dragons. Alternatively, you may wish to purchase the full sized vivarium that your Bearded Dragon would eventually require but I would not recommend this as baby Bearded Dragons can be problematic in too large an enclosure i.e. the dragon may fail to find water, food, suitable basking sites and hiding places in such a large area.

In terms of decoration, Bearded Dragons require suitable hiding places, a basking area and suitable branches for example Cork Branch or Bamboo Root is ideal. Small, rough rock or pebbles also give the added advantage of helping to keep Bearded Dragons nails worn down. Substrate needs to be chosen carefully due to possible risks of impaction from ingestion. When raising our baby Bearded Dragons we choose to use no substrate whatsoever as this gives the advantage of ease of cleaning for a hygienic environment, monitoring stools, lack of hiding places for crickets / hoppers and reduces the risk of impaction. Adult Bearded Dragons should ideally be provided with a silica based, dust free sand suitable for reptiles.

Lighting / Heating

Providing the correct heating and lighting is essential to keeping Bearded Dragons healthy. Activity and their metabolic processes depend on proper light and heat. When using a wooden vivarium a ceramic heat source at one end of the vivarium controlled by a suitable dimming or pulse thermostat, works best. Heat guards must be used over heat sources. A basking spot should be provided and the temperature at this spot should measure between 90°F and 100°F. A hot rock such as the Exo Terra Heat Rock can also be used as a secondary heat source if required.

Bearded Dragons as with all reptiles are ecothermic and use external temperatures to control their body temperature. If the temperature is too cool in the vivarium, this can lead to digestion problems.

UVB light is essential for bearded dragons as they need this to produce vitamin d3 which in turn helps the absorption of calcium, providing strong bone growth especially in young bearded dragons which are growing fast. We suggest a uv-b fluorescent tube placed along the back or ceiling of the vivarium to be the best form of uv lighting as this gives the whole vivarium with an even distribution of UVB light rather than a UVB spot light which is only providing it in a small concentrated area. Fluorescent UVB light tubes should be replaced every six months as even though the light you see may look as bright, the strength of the UVB does deplete over time. Bearded dragons should be provided with up to 14 hours of UVB light per day.

Diet

Bearded Dragons are omnivores which means they eat both plant and animal material. All insect food should be dusted with a calcium powder. Insects to feed to a Bearded Dragon are crickets (black and brown), hoppers, mealworms, giant mealworms and wax moth larvae. They should also be offered plant and vegetable matter such as dandelion leaves (when available), finely grated carrot, green beans, peas, sweet corn and fruits such as banana (small amounts), apple, strawberries, grapes. Any fruit, vegetables or plant matter should be washed thoroughly before feeding to your Bearded Dragon. There are also complete pellet foods available to feed to Bearded Dragons which can be fed occasionally but not as a staple diet. A pinkie mouse can also be given occasionally as a treat. Bearded Dragons should be fed in the daytime as they are less likely to feed at night and uneaten crickets running around the vivarium while the Bearded Dragon is sleeping can be an irritation and the crickets can also bite a sleeping beardie. Fresh water should be provided daily in a shallow dish. Reverse osmosis water is best to use but if this type of water cannot be sourced, bottled mineral water is also suitable. Do not use tap water.

Behaviour

Bearded Dragons have fascinating behaviour. When housed in a group and sexual maturity is reached (from around 6 months of age), dragons will puff out their throat in a display of dominance to others in the group or as a warning to predators. Less dominant members of the group will wave their arms in slow forward circular motions as a sign of appeasement usually seen in females during breeding, whilst males during breeding, will be seen to be extending their throat and bobbing their head. Usually the alpha male of the group will have the highest basking spot in the enclosure. Gaping is usually done when the bearded dragon is trying to cool down, check the temperatures in the vivarium to ensure that their is a temperature gradient from one end of the enclosure to the other and ensure the enclosure is not overheating. A Bearded Dragon, should look alert and be standing proud pushed up from the front legs. Listless sleepy dragons should be avoided when purchasing.

Article source :

http://www.888reptiles.co.uk/reptilecare/caresheet_beardeddragon.php

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pogona

http://www.churpchurp.com/SivLOTD/share/nescafe-chilllah