Showing posts with label Difficult (care). Show all posts
Showing posts with label Difficult (care). Show all posts

Thursday, August 18, 2011

Red and Green Iguana






Iguana is a herbivorous genus of lizard native to tropical areas of Central and South America and the Caribbean. The two species of lizard within the genus Iguana possess a dewlap, a row of spines running down their back to their tail, and a third "eye" on their head. This eye is known as the parietal eye, visible as a pale scale on the top of the head. Behind their neck are small scales which resemble spikes, known as tuberculate scales. These scales may be a variety of colors and are not always visible from close distances. They have a large round scale on their cheek known as a subtympanic shield.

Iguanas have excellent vision and can see shapes, shadows, colors and movement at long distances. Iguanas use their eyes to navigate through crowded forests, as well as for finding food. They use visual signals to communicate with other members of the same species.

The tympanum is the iguana's ear drum, and is located above the subtympanic shield and behind the eye. Iguanas are often hard to spot, as they tend to blend into their surroundings. Their scale colors are a mode of hiding from larger predators.


Scientific name : Iguana iguana

Common name : Red and Green Iguana

Housing Size : 6 feet x 6 feet x 6 feet bare minimum

Housing Type : Rain forests islands

Adult Size : Up to 5 - 6 feet

Level Of Difficulty : Difficult

Life Span : Up to 15 - 20 years

Diet : herbivorous


Housing

Iguanas should not be allowed to roam around the house. Large aquariums or large polyurethane sealed wood, glass and wire cages are necessary to accommodate iguanas, which can reach five to six feet and weigh up to 18 pounds. Your iguana’s home needs to be cleaned frequently (one to three times per week). When cleaning his home, never use soap, bleach or any other chemical. The scent alone can kill an iguana. Simply use hot water and a scrub brush and soak all plants, sticks, rocks and other things in his cage in hot water as well. Iguanas often burrow under their floor covering and hide various objects (pieces of their shed, food, etc.). His floor covering should be changed daily.


Substrate

Newspaper or paper towels are the best lining for your iguana’s cage, since the bedding needs to be changed daily. Corncob bedding, sand, gravel, dirt, wood shavings, bark or kitty litter are not good cage liners. These are commonly eaten and could harm your pet.


Diet

Iguanas are herbivores (vegetarians). Dark green leafy vegetables such as collard, mustard, turnip and dandelion greens and small amounts of kale, chard and spinach chopped to a fine consistency in a food processor are good foods for them. Do not ever feed your iguana animal protein. Iguanas also require a calcium supplement. Check with your veterinarian for an appropriate supplement and dosage.


Water

Iguanas live in close association to water in the wild and clean, fresh water for drinking and bathing is important at all times. Iguanas love to bathe. Fill your bathtub about half-full of room temperature water and let him loose. Your pet will swim and play for hours. Bathing helps moisten his skin and aids in his peeling process. A bath will also help keep bacteria out from under his nails and scales. You can provide a shallow bathing pan in your iguana’s cage as well.


Lighting

In the wild, iguanas spend most of their day basking in the sun. In captivity, unfiltered sunlight is important for vitamin D formation. Iguanas need vitamin D to process calcium in their bodies just like humans. UV lights (brands include Vita-Lite and Durotest) are beneficial as a complement to sunlight. Your iguana will benefit from a few hours of weekly natural sun exposure in addition to artificial light. A basking light (incandescent light) should provide a "spot" for heating. Placing lights on a timer can provide a 12-hour day and a 12-hour night for your pet.


Temperature

Inadequate ambient temperature prevents proper digestion, suppresses the immune system and leads to lethargy. The temperature in your iguana’s cage should be between 85 and 95 degrees Fahrenheit during the day and no lower than 75 degrees at night.


Iguanas and Your Other Pets

Many iguana owners have other pets. Whether your iguana gets along with and co-exists peacefully and comfortably with other pets depends on many factors, including your iguana’s personality, the personalities of your other pets, how they are introduced and what types of living arrangements everyone has. The key to introducing iguanas to other pets and encouraging them to form comfortable relationships is to be aware of how they feel and respect that. Do not rush interactions. Gradually introduce your iguana to other pets in your household and always closely monitor their interaction.


Article source :









Green Iguana





Red Iguana

Wednesday, August 17, 2011

Chameleon






Chameleons (family Chamaeleonidae) are a distinctive and highly specialized clade of lizards. They are distinguished by their parrot-like zygodactylous feet, their separately mobile and stereoscopic eyes, their very long, highly modified, and rapidly extrudable tongues, their swaying gait, the possession by many of a prehensile tail, crests or horns on their distinctively shaped heads, and the ability of some to change color. Uniquely adapted for climbing and visual hunting, the approximately 160 species of chameleon range from Africa, Madagascar, Spain and Portugal, across south Asia, to Sri Lanka, have been introduced to Hawaii, California and Florida, and are found in warm habitats that vary from rain forest to desert conditions.

Chameleons can do well in captivity but their very specific, generally unforgiving, care requirements place them on our list of lizards best kept for more advanced handlers. Chameleons available in pet stores are often wild caught and difficult to care for, carrying a variety of parasites and diseases. Captive bred animals are a must.

Though chameleons are beautiful, they are best not being handled unless it is an absolutely necessary as they are easily stressed or hurt. They need very high humidity and a specially set up terrarium with natural or fake plants and ideally with an automatic misting system. Chameleons can make wonderful, fascinating pets but they require much more research, commitment and care than many other lizard species.


Scientific name : Chamaeleonidae

Common name : Chameleon

Housing Size : Variable as per species

Housing Type : tropical and mountain rain forests, savannas and sometimes deserts and steppes

Adult Size : Variable

Level Of Difficulty : Difficult

Life Span : Up to 5 years

Diet : Insectivores, small birds


Common pet chameleons

1. Veiled Chameleon

- Scientific name : Chamaeleo calyptratus
- Size (male) : 14'' - 24''
- Size (female) : 10'' - 13''
- Color : Green & Light Colors
- Life span : Up to 5 years

2. Jackson's Chameleon

- Scientific name : Chamaeleo jacksonii
- Size (male) : 9'' - 13''
- Size (female) : 10'' - 13''
- Color : Green & Light Colors
- Life span : Up to 5 - 10 years

3. Panther Chameleon

- Scientific name : Furcifer pardalis
- Size (male) : 15'' - 21''
- Size (female) : 9'' - 13''
- Color : Darker Colors
- Life span : Up to 5 years (2-3 for birthing females)

4. Bearded Pygmy Chameleon

- Scientific name : Rhampholeon brevicaudatus
- Size (male) : 2'' - 3''
- Size (female) : 2'' - 3''
- Color : Brown, Beige, Green
- Life span :Up to 3 - 5 years

5. Spectral Pygmy Chameleon

- Scientific name : Rhampholeon spectrum
- Size (male) : 3'' - 4''
- Size (female) : 2'' - 4''
- Color : Tan & Gray
- Life span :Unknown

6. Pygmy Chameleon

- Scientific name : Rhampholeon temporalis
- Size (male) : 2.5'' - 4''
- Size (female) : 2'' - 3.5''
- Color : Gray & Brown
- Life span :Unknown



Housing

Glass aquariums can lead to respiratory diseases due to the stagnant air not being circulated, and they will be stressed if they can see their reflection. These Chameleons also need a large enclosure to climb around in; and smaller enclosures will stress them. A 3' x 3' x 3' habitat is best, but larger is better. Offer lots of vines to walk on and leaves to climb. Try to place some foliage between the outside and the Chameleon, as the activity in the room can stress them. For the bottom, use either a reptile carpet, or a digestible forest substrate from your local pet store. In the summer months, you should bring your Chameleon outside. The sun provides natural vitamins for them that they can not get otherwise. To help keep stress to a minimum, place the Chameleon in a wire cage (a bird cage works great), with places to walk and climb.


Food & Water

You want to offer your Chameleon a wide range of foods, to provide a varied diet. Crickets are the staple food and should make up most of their diet. You should also feed them mealworms, silkworms, butterworms, waxworms and superworms. Waxworms are very high in fat so limit this feeder insect. Chameleon will even eat earthworms. Not all Veiled Chameleons will eat the same insects, so try different ones to find out which ones your pet likes. Some Veileds will eat plant matter, so offer some lettuce greens, spinach and other green leave vegetables. It is imperative to offer a calcium supplement with the food. Calcium aids in the growth of their bones, and without it they will be weak and in pain. Dust the insects with a powdered calcium supplement every second feeding while they are young, and 2 - 3 times a week for adults. You should switch to a multivitamin supplement when they are around 6 - 8 months old. Make sure this multivitamin supplement contains calcium.


Lighting, Temperature & Humidity

During the day it is important to offer lighting which creates a heat gradient of 80 degress F to 95 degrees F. The Chameleon will find its own comfort level by basking at different levels within the habitat. Do not use heating pads at the bottom, as this can seriously burn your pet. Chameleon's heat-sensors are on their backs, not their stomachs. At night, the lights should be turned off. You can also use a night time bulb, which creates the illusion of a tropical nightime atmosphere. The heat gradient at night should be from 70 degrees F to 85 degrees F.

Humidity should be kept to a minimum for Veiled Chameleons.

Flourescent lighting should be offered to provide the Chameleon with needed UVB rays. Specialty UVB bulbs can also be purchased from your local pet store. A broad-spectrum heat bulb should also be used at the top. At night time, use a night blub, either a blue or red light, which still offers the Chameleon a heat source.




Article source :







Veiled Chameleon

Jackson's Chameleon

Panther Chameleon

Bearded Pygmy Chameleon

Spectral Pygmy Chameleon

Pygmy Chameleon