Thursday, August 18, 2011

Carolina Anole

The Carolina anole (Anolis carolinensis) is an arboreal lizard found primarily in the southeastern United States and some Caribbean islands. Other common names include the green anole, American anole and red-throated anole. It is sometimes referred to as the American chameleon due to its color-changing abilities; however, many lizards are capable of this, and anoles are not true chameleons.

This species is native to North America, where it is found mainly in the southeastern parts of the continent. Anoles are most abundant on the Atlantic Coastal Plains in North Carolina, South Carolina, Florida and Georgia, and the Gulf Coastal Plain in Texas. The species has been introduced into Hawaii and the Ogasawara Islands.


Scientific name : Anolis carolinensis

Common name : Carolina Anole

Housing Size : 24 inches x 12 inches x 21 inches bare minimum

Housing Type : Rain forests

Adult Size : Up to 5 - 8 inches

Level Of Difficulty : Easy

Life Span : Up to 8 years

Diet : Insectivores


Housing

Green anoles are an arboreal species. This means that they will benefit from taller enclosures opposed to those that have more surface area. The minimum suggested enclosure size for a single or paired anole grouping is 10 gallons. A larger enclosure will allow you to create a much more realistic environment for your anoles as well as create a proper heat gradient, something that will be difficult to do in a 10 gallon tank.

You should increase the enclosure size by a MINIMUM of 5 gallons for each anole being housed together.

Note: Male anoles will fight over their territory. You should not house male anoles together. Groups of females are acceptable as are groups of females with one male. On occasion, the male will chase the females out of his "area". This should not be confused with the aggressive biting the males will inflict on one another.


Substrate

The substrate you use with your anoles will largely depend on the type of environment you are creating for them. Living enclosures, which suit this species best, will require the use of potting soil. You will want to use soil that doesn't contain additives such as perlite. Keeping the soil damp, not wet, will also aid in keeping the humidity regulated as well as keeping the plants watered.

Artificial substrates such a reptile carpet can be used if impaction is a concern. You will want to avoid substrates such as sand however, as they will cause issues with the humidity, are impaction risks, and are completely unnatural for this species.


Feeding

Anoles are insectivores and will readily take appropriately sized crickets, mealworms, wax worms, and other feeder insects. In the wild anoles get to eat when they want so they should at least be given the opportunity to eat daily in captivity. If your anoles prefer to not eat daily, switch them over to being fed every other day.

When leaving prey items in the enclosure with your anoles, you will want to leave a food source for the prey. This will help keep them hydrated and full of nutrients as well as prevent them from nibbling on your anoles.

The prey size for your anoles should not exceed the space between their eyes, or 1/2 the size of their head. While some anoles will take much larger prey, it is difficult for them to eat and some will actually shy away from larger prey.

You should gut load your feeder insects 24-48 hours prior to feeding your anoles. This can be done by feeding the intended prey food items such as fresh fruits and vegetables, fish flakes, and high protein cereals.


Water

A shallow dish of clean water should remain in the enclosure at all times. Some anoles will not drink from standing water in a bowl. You will need to mist your anoles enclosure several times per day so that they can lick the drops of water from the glass and plants.


Lighting

Green anoles require access to unfiltered UVB in order to assimilate the dietary calcium they ingest. The photoperiod created with their UVB producing light should be 12 hours of light and 12 hours of darkness. Failure to provide proper lighting will result in a slow and painful death for your anoles.


Heating

Your anole should have a basking spot maintained between 85° and 90°. The ambient temperature during the day should be 75°-80°. The temperature can drop as much as 10° at night but should not fall below 65°.


Humidity

These anoles require a relative humidity between 60% and 70%. Excessive moisture resulting from humidity levels exceed those listed can cause health issues.


Hides

Live plants and climbing branches will provide both cover and color to your habitat. The live plants will also aid in maintaining adequate humidity levels. Since these reptiles are arboreal, hanging plants will suit them best. (Plants that extend from the ground to the top of the enclosure will work wonderfully as well.) Bromeliads, spider plants, and varying ivy's work well. You can also use hanging vines as well as artificial plants to create cover. The vast amount of stress associated with captive anoles is directly associated with their inability to feel secure in their environment. The more foliage and cover you have, the happier your anoles will be.


Breeding

Healthy and happy anoles will readily breed in captivity. The normal breeding season for the green anole begins in the spring and last several months, ending in late summer or early fall. The male anole will have already chosen his territory and will be posturing and displaying his dewlap to any females in the enclosure. Females that are ready to breed will enter his area allowing him to bite them by the nape of their neck and positioning them to breed as depicted by the image on the right. Sometimes the female will run and the male will chase her down and subdue her.

Once copulation has transpired, the female will not breed again for the remainder of the breeding season. She will begin laying eggs roughly every 2 weeks until her season is over and she has laid roughly 10 eggs. The eggs will often be laid beneath the substrate in a location she feels is secure, warm, and moist. You may not even realize that she has laid eggs if she has chosen a good spot.

You can either collect the eggs for artificial incubation or you can allow them to remain in the enclosure and see if they hatch on their own. (Many successful hatchings occur in the enclosure within 30-45 days.)

The newborn anoles will be mini replicas of their parents. They will need to be fed a diet of pinhead crickets, wingless fruit flies, or springtails that have been dusted with calcium and a multi-vitamin. If you wish for them to reach adulthood you may want to house them all individually until they are mature. Young anoles will sometimes fight with one another or be eaten by larger anoles. For each anole that you hatch, you will need to increase the enclosure size by 5 gallons per hatchling if they are to all reside in the same enclosure.


Article source :
















Posted by SivLOTD at 10:46 PM 1 comments

Mwanza Flat-headed Agama





The Mwanza Flat-headed Agama or Mwanza Flat-headed Rock Agama (Agama mwanzae) is a species of lizard from the Agamidae family, found in Tanzania, Rwanda, and Kenya.

It can often be seen in the heat of the day basking on rocks or kopjes. The male's head, neck and shoulders are bright red or violet, while the body dark blue. The female is mostly brown and is difficult to distinguish from other female agamas.
This species is often confused with the Red-headed Rock Agama (Agama agama).

The species has become a fashionable pet due to its coloration which resembles the comic book superhero Spider-Man.

Agama species are widely spread throughout areas of Africa. Agamas are most often found in semi -dessert or scrubland environments. The Spiderman agama is relatively new in the U.S. pet trade and is proving to be very popular due to its intense red and blue coloration and overly active personality.


Scientific name : Agama mwanzae

Common name : Mwanza Flat-headed Agama

Housing Size : 36 inches x 18 inches x 18 inches bare minimum

Housing Type : semi -dessert or scrubland

Adult Size : Up to 6 - 9 inches

Level Of Difficulty : Moderate to Difficult

Life Span : Up to 15 years

Diet : Insectivores


Housing

House Spiderman agamas in groups of 1.3 and during breeding season should introduce a second male to see if a roll of dominance helps with the captive breeding of this species . It seems that the dominant male will color up intensely and to this interaction seems to help stimulate breeding. House agamas in a terrarium measuring 36 x 18 x 18.Use lots of branches for climbing and basking as well as cork hollows to escape from the heat and for hiding spaces .


Diet and nutrition

Feed a wide variety of insects including crickets mealworms and roaches .Dust insects several times a week with a calcium and multivitamin. Use reptile cal calcium w d3 and reptile cal herptavite as supplements. Make sure to feed your crickets a high quality cricket feed such as nature zones cricket total bites to ensure proper gut loading of your insects.


Water and humidity

Provide a clean shallow water bowl at all times. Although considered a dessert animal we have found that my Spiderman Agamas drink an unusual amount of water in comparison to other dessert lizards. Mist agamas enclosure each morning simulating morning dew allowing the agamas to lap up water off the glass enclosure and cage furnishings.


Size and longevity

Spiderman agamas reach an average length of 6 - 9 inches with females usually being smaller. Agama species have been known to be kept in captivity for as long as fifteen years if housed and maintained properly.


Handling

Due to the fact that these are extremely quick lizards only minimal handling is recommended. Use caution when cleaning the cage to prevent animals from escaping!! They are fast!!!


Sexing

Like most agama species the males are vividly colored with reds blues and violets giving this amazing creature its common name. Females are usually smaller and not as vibrantly colored which make it difficult to determine from other species of female agamas.


article source :














Male







Female





Posted by SivLOTD at 7:54 PM 0 comments
Labels: ,

Red and Green Iguana






Iguana is a herbivorous genus of lizard native to tropical areas of Central and South America and the Caribbean. The two species of lizard within the genus Iguana possess a dewlap, a row of spines running down their back to their tail, and a third "eye" on their head. This eye is known as the parietal eye, visible as a pale scale on the top of the head. Behind their neck are small scales which resemble spikes, known as tuberculate scales. These scales may be a variety of colors and are not always visible from close distances. They have a large round scale on their cheek known as a subtympanic shield.

Iguanas have excellent vision and can see shapes, shadows, colors and movement at long distances. Iguanas use their eyes to navigate through crowded forests, as well as for finding food. They use visual signals to communicate with other members of the same species.

The tympanum is the iguana's ear drum, and is located above the subtympanic shield and behind the eye. Iguanas are often hard to spot, as they tend to blend into their surroundings. Their scale colors are a mode of hiding from larger predators.


Scientific name : Iguana iguana

Common name : Red and Green Iguana

Housing Size : 6 feet x 6 feet x 6 feet bare minimum

Housing Type : Rain forests islands

Adult Size : Up to 5 - 6 feet

Level Of Difficulty : Difficult

Life Span : Up to 15 - 20 years

Diet : herbivorous


Housing

Iguanas should not be allowed to roam around the house. Large aquariums or large polyurethane sealed wood, glass and wire cages are necessary to accommodate iguanas, which can reach five to six feet and weigh up to 18 pounds. Your iguana’s home needs to be cleaned frequently (one to three times per week). When cleaning his home, never use soap, bleach or any other chemical. The scent alone can kill an iguana. Simply use hot water and a scrub brush and soak all plants, sticks, rocks and other things in his cage in hot water as well. Iguanas often burrow under their floor covering and hide various objects (pieces of their shed, food, etc.). His floor covering should be changed daily.


Substrate

Newspaper or paper towels are the best lining for your iguana’s cage, since the bedding needs to be changed daily. Corncob bedding, sand, gravel, dirt, wood shavings, bark or kitty litter are not good cage liners. These are commonly eaten and could harm your pet.


Diet

Iguanas are herbivores (vegetarians). Dark green leafy vegetables such as collard, mustard, turnip and dandelion greens and small amounts of kale, chard and spinach chopped to a fine consistency in a food processor are good foods for them. Do not ever feed your iguana animal protein. Iguanas also require a calcium supplement. Check with your veterinarian for an appropriate supplement and dosage.


Water

Iguanas live in close association to water in the wild and clean, fresh water for drinking and bathing is important at all times. Iguanas love to bathe. Fill your bathtub about half-full of room temperature water and let him loose. Your pet will swim and play for hours. Bathing helps moisten his skin and aids in his peeling process. A bath will also help keep bacteria out from under his nails and scales. You can provide a shallow bathing pan in your iguana’s cage as well.


Lighting

In the wild, iguanas spend most of their day basking in the sun. In captivity, unfiltered sunlight is important for vitamin D formation. Iguanas need vitamin D to process calcium in their bodies just like humans. UV lights (brands include Vita-Lite and Durotest) are beneficial as a complement to sunlight. Your iguana will benefit from a few hours of weekly natural sun exposure in addition to artificial light. A basking light (incandescent light) should provide a "spot" for heating. Placing lights on a timer can provide a 12-hour day and a 12-hour night for your pet.


Temperature

Inadequate ambient temperature prevents proper digestion, suppresses the immune system and leads to lethargy. The temperature in your iguana’s cage should be between 85 and 95 degrees Fahrenheit during the day and no lower than 75 degrees at night.


Iguanas and Your Other Pets

Many iguana owners have other pets. Whether your iguana gets along with and co-exists peacefully and comfortably with other pets depends on many factors, including your iguana’s personality, the personalities of your other pets, how they are introduced and what types of living arrangements everyone has. The key to introducing iguanas to other pets and encouraging them to form comfortable relationships is to be aware of how they feel and respect that. Do not rush interactions. Gradually introduce your iguana to other pets in your household and always closely monitor their interaction.


Article source :









Green Iguana





Red Iguana

Posted by SivLOTD at 8:33 AM 0 comments
Labels: ,

Wednesday, August 17, 2011

Argentine Black and White Tegu






The Argentine black and white tegu, Tupinambis merianae, is the largest lizard on best pet list. It is important to note that adult tegus require more space than the average owner is willing to provide, but if that isn't an issue for you then a tegu might be a great choice as a pet lizard.

Tegus are one of the smartest reptiles, able to learn simple tricks and to respond to the sound of their names. Typically calm, tegus properly socialized from a young age can learn to walk on a harness and be handled with great frequency.

It should be noted that there are multiple tegu species; Columbian tegus are NOT recommended as a good pet lizard. These black and white cousins are often aggressive and difficult to care for.


Scientific name : Tupinambis merianae

Common name : Argentine Black and White Tegu

Housing Size : 6 feet x 3 feet x 2 feet

Housing Type : Tropical rain forests

Adult Size : Up to 4 feet

Level Of Difficulty : Easy to moderate

Life Span : Up to 10 - 15 years

Diet : Omnivorous


Housing

Due to their large size, Argentinian black and white tegus need a large secure enclosure. Juveniles can be kept in a large aquarium with a locking lid, but adults will need a larger specialty or custom built cage. For adults, plan on at least 6 feet by 3 feet by 2 feet tall (tall cages not necessary for tegus). A hide should be provided at either end of the temperature gradient, and keeping the hide slightly damp can help with shedding.


Substrate

Tegus like to burrow, and need a substrate that is absorbent and easy to clean. Cypress mulch, orchid bark or eucalyptus mulch are the preferred substrates, although some people prefer the convenience of several layers of paper (although this prevents the natural instinct to dig). Avoid wood chips, corn cob or gravel due to the risk of ingestion. Indoor/outdoor carpeting is likely to get shredded in digging attempts and the stray threads can pose a risk of entangling nails/toes.


Size and Appearance

The Argentinian black and white tegu can reach an adult size of 4 feet or even longer (including the tail). They have a fairly distinctive pattern of white and black dots and stripes over the entire body.


Diet

Juvenile tegus can be fed a diet largely composed of crickets (dusted with a calcium/vitamin supplement) along with some other feeder insects for variety. As they get older the can be fed pinky mice, and eventually adult mice (frozen, prekilled). Adult argentinian black and white tegus can have a variety of fruits and vegetables added to their diet. Canned dog food and eggs can also be offered as an occasional supplement. Feed in a bowl or with tongs to prevent accidentally getting bitten.


Water

Argentinian black and white tegus enjoy soaking, so provide a large shallow water dish. Provide fresh water frequently.


Light and Heat

Argentinian black and white tegus are diurnal and need exposure to full spectrum UVA and UVB lighting. While it is true that tegus can tolerate cooler temperatures, for proper health and digestion, daytime temperatures should be maintained at 80-85 F (27-30 C) with a basking spot at 100-110 F (38-43 C). Cooler nightime temperatures are fine. Use lamps and heat mats, and avoid hot rocks.


Temperament

Despite its large size, the Argentinian black and white tegu enjoys a reputation as being quite docile and tame (much more so than other tegus). This is especially true of those that are handled regularly from a young age.


Article source :










Posted by SivLOTD at 10:36 PM 0 comments
Labels: ,

Chameleon






Chameleons (family Chamaeleonidae) are a distinctive and highly specialized clade of lizards. They are distinguished by their parrot-like zygodactylous feet, their separately mobile and stereoscopic eyes, their very long, highly modified, and rapidly extrudable tongues, their swaying gait, the possession by many of a prehensile tail, crests or horns on their distinctively shaped heads, and the ability of some to change color. Uniquely adapted for climbing and visual hunting, the approximately 160 species of chameleon range from Africa, Madagascar, Spain and Portugal, across south Asia, to Sri Lanka, have been introduced to Hawaii, California and Florida, and are found in warm habitats that vary from rain forest to desert conditions.

Chameleons can do well in captivity but their very specific, generally unforgiving, care requirements place them on our list of lizards best kept for more advanced handlers. Chameleons available in pet stores are often wild caught and difficult to care for, carrying a variety of parasites and diseases. Captive bred animals are a must.

Though chameleons are beautiful, they are best not being handled unless it is an absolutely necessary as they are easily stressed or hurt. They need very high humidity and a specially set up terrarium with natural or fake plants and ideally with an automatic misting system. Chameleons can make wonderful, fascinating pets but they require much more research, commitment and care than many other lizard species.


Scientific name : Chamaeleonidae

Common name : Chameleon

Housing Size : Variable as per species

Housing Type : tropical and mountain rain forests, savannas and sometimes deserts and steppes

Adult Size : Variable

Level Of Difficulty : Difficult

Life Span : Up to 5 years

Diet : Insectivores, small birds


Common pet chameleons

1. Veiled Chameleon

- Scientific name : Chamaeleo calyptratus
- Size (male) : 14'' - 24''
- Size (female) : 10'' - 13''
- Color : Green & Light Colors
- Life span : Up to 5 years

2. Jackson's Chameleon

- Scientific name : Chamaeleo jacksonii
- Size (male) : 9'' - 13''
- Size (female) : 10'' - 13''
- Color : Green & Light Colors
- Life span : Up to 5 - 10 years

3. Panther Chameleon

- Scientific name : Furcifer pardalis
- Size (male) : 15'' - 21''
- Size (female) : 9'' - 13''
- Color : Darker Colors
- Life span : Up to 5 years (2-3 for birthing females)

4. Bearded Pygmy Chameleon

- Scientific name : Rhampholeon brevicaudatus
- Size (male) : 2'' - 3''
- Size (female) : 2'' - 3''
- Color : Brown, Beige, Green
- Life span :Up to 3 - 5 years

5. Spectral Pygmy Chameleon

- Scientific name : Rhampholeon spectrum
- Size (male) : 3'' - 4''
- Size (female) : 2'' - 4''
- Color : Tan & Gray
- Life span :Unknown

6. Pygmy Chameleon

- Scientific name : Rhampholeon temporalis
- Size (male) : 2.5'' - 4''
- Size (female) : 2'' - 3.5''
- Color : Gray & Brown
- Life span :Unknown



Housing

Glass aquariums can lead to respiratory diseases due to the stagnant air not being circulated, and they will be stressed if they can see their reflection. These Chameleons also need a large enclosure to climb around in; and smaller enclosures will stress them. A 3' x 3' x 3' habitat is best, but larger is better. Offer lots of vines to walk on and leaves to climb. Try to place some foliage between the outside and the Chameleon, as the activity in the room can stress them. For the bottom, use either a reptile carpet, or a digestible forest substrate from your local pet store. In the summer months, you should bring your Chameleon outside. The sun provides natural vitamins for them that they can not get otherwise. To help keep stress to a minimum, place the Chameleon in a wire cage (a bird cage works great), with places to walk and climb.


Food & Water

You want to offer your Chameleon a wide range of foods, to provide a varied diet. Crickets are the staple food and should make up most of their diet. You should also feed them mealworms, silkworms, butterworms, waxworms and superworms. Waxworms are very high in fat so limit this feeder insect. Chameleon will even eat earthworms. Not all Veiled Chameleons will eat the same insects, so try different ones to find out which ones your pet likes. Some Veileds will eat plant matter, so offer some lettuce greens, spinach and other green leave vegetables. It is imperative to offer a calcium supplement with the food. Calcium aids in the growth of their bones, and without it they will be weak and in pain. Dust the insects with a powdered calcium supplement every second feeding while they are young, and 2 - 3 times a week for adults. You should switch to a multivitamin supplement when they are around 6 - 8 months old. Make sure this multivitamin supplement contains calcium.


Lighting, Temperature & Humidity

During the day it is important to offer lighting which creates a heat gradient of 80 degress F to 95 degrees F. The Chameleon will find its own comfort level by basking at different levels within the habitat. Do not use heating pads at the bottom, as this can seriously burn your pet. Chameleon's heat-sensors are on their backs, not their stomachs. At night, the lights should be turned off. You can also use a night time bulb, which creates the illusion of a tropical nightime atmosphere. The heat gradient at night should be from 70 degrees F to 85 degrees F.

Humidity should be kept to a minimum for Veiled Chameleons.

Flourescent lighting should be offered to provide the Chameleon with needed UVB rays. Specialty UVB bulbs can also be purchased from your local pet store. A broad-spectrum heat bulb should also be used at the top. At night time, use a night blub, either a blue or red light, which still offers the Chameleon a heat source.




Article source :







Veiled Chameleon

Jackson's Chameleon

Panther Chameleon

Bearded Pygmy Chameleon

Spectral Pygmy Chameleon

Pygmy Chameleon






Posted by SivLOTD at 4:16 PM 3 comments
Labels: ,

Red Ackie, Spiny-tailed monitor





Varanus acanthuras, or the "ackie" as it is more commonly called, is also known as the ridge-tailed lizard and spiny-tailed lizard. This small monitor is a true dwarf and is an ideal captive with very straightforward care requirements. If you are looking for a pet monitor this lizard is for you!

Beautifully colored and with the look of little dragons, these active lizards are fun to watch and care for. Ackies can be held on a daily basis and usually tame very well. Ackies can be fed every other day and will accept a variety of foods including crickets and pinky mice.


Scientific name : Varanus acanthuras

Common name : Red Ackie, Spiny-tailed monitor

Housing Size : 55 gallon tank or equivalent

Housing Type : Rocky ranges and outcrops

Adult Size : 16-26 inches

Level Of Difficulty : Easy to Moderate

Life Span : Up to 10 years

Diet : Insectivores, small mammal (pinkie)


Diagnosis

The spiny-tailed monitor, a medium-sized monitor lizard, can attain a total length of up to 70 cm. The tail is about 1,3-2,3 times longer than head and body. The upper side is a rich, dark brown and painted with bright yellowish to cream spots, which often enclose a few dark scales. Its tail is round in section and features very spinose scales. There are 70-115 scales around the middle of the body. The spiny-tailed monitor is distinguished from the similar-looking species V. baritji and V. primordius by the presence of pale longitudinal stripes on the neck.


Distribution and habitat

This arid-adapted lizard is found in northern Western Australia, in the Northern Territory and in the eastern and northeastern parts of Queensland. The spiny-tailed monitor inhabits arid areas, and is associated with rocky ranges and outcrops.


Housing

Bigger is always better when it comes to monitor enclosures. There are minimums that should be followed however. The enclosure should be twice as long as the monitors length and as wide as the monitor is long. So for adult Ackies the minimum size enclosure should be 4 feet long x 2 feet wide x 2 feet high. If you have room for a larger enclosure it will not go to waste. If you have the room you may go higher as Ackies are partly arboreal and will climb if given the opportunity. Ackies are very active and will put any available space to good use. Also the larger the enclosure the more available temperature and humidity gradients there will be for your Ackies to choose from. Remember that Ackies have a quick growth rate so plan for that large enclosure ahead of time.


Substrate

Keep in mind that for monitors substrate is an important part of husbandry. No linoleum here. The best substrate to use is plain old dirt. Some Ackie owners mix in a bit of sand as well trying to create a sandy loam. The best soil to use is the type you dig up yourself. It should be extracted from an area that is free of pesticide and fertilizer use. Agriculture fields are not a good source. Other than that it may be purchased in bag form from a garden center. However the black soil tends to dry out rather quickly. Make sure here as well that it contains no growing additives, usually the cheaper the better. Maintaining a level of moisture in the substrate is important for holding burrows as well as for insuring complete sheds. Not doing this could cause loss of toes or tails from retained dead skin.


Hydrating

There are two ways to ensure your Ackies are hydrated properly. One is to soak them weekly in warm water. The depth should be no higher than the shoulder, so their heads can be held above the water. This should not be done with babies. Rather put them in a container with soaking wet paper towels. Another way which is probably more natural is a heavy misting a few times a week. Regularly hydrating your Ackie will greatly aid in ridding the toes of those stuck sheds.


Diet

In short, crickets, pinkie mice, superworms, mealworms, silkworms and ground turkey. There are some that feed canned dog food but this usually leads to loose stools. Whole prey is a much better choice. Crickets should make up the bulk of the diet especially for hatchlings. Mice and ground turkey should only be offered once a week. I suggest feeding pre-killed mice. There is a certain thrill I guess to be had by watching your Ackie kill, but live appropriately sized mice for Ackies is usually hard to find. Once they like live they might not want anything else. So don't make things hard on yourself. Other exotic foods are often offered as well. Like crustaceans, goldfish and other hard to get insects. These have the same problem as feeding live mice. What are you going to do when your Ackie gets hooked on a specialty food source and you can't get it out of season? Keep it simple with the previously mentioned diet and your Ackie will have all the nutrition they need. Meals should be supplemented with a vitamin D3 enriched mineral supplement nearly every feeding.

Article source :








Posted by SivLOTD at 3:03 PM 0 comments
Labels: ,

Tuesday, August 16, 2011

Blue Tongue Skink




Introduction.

Blue-tongued skinks comprise the Australasian genus, Tiliqua, which contains some of the largest members of the skink family (Scincidae). They are commonly called blue-tongued lizards or simply blue-tongues in Australia. As suggested by these common names, a prominent characteristic of the genus is a large blue tongue that can be bared as a bluff-warning to potential enemies.


Systematics and Distribution

Blue-tongued skinks are closely related to the genera Cyclodomorphus and Hemisphaeriodon. All species are found on mainland Australia with the exception of Tiliqua gigas which occurs in New Guinea and various islands of Indonesia. One subspecies of Tiliqua scincoides is also found on several small Indonesian islands between Australia and New Guinea. Tiliqua nigrolutea is the only species present in Tasmania. With the exception of the pygmy blue-tongue, they are relatively large lizards (up to 37 cm total length), light-bodied, short-limbed, broad with a distinct head and dull teeth.


Ecology

Most species are diurnal ground-foraging omnivores, feeding on a wide variety of insects, gastropods, flowers, fruits and berries. The pygmy blue-tongue is again the exception, being primarily an ambush predator of terrestrial arthropods. All are viviparous, with litter sizes ranging from 1-4 in the pygmy blue-tongue and shingleback to 5-24 in the eastern and northern blue-tongues.


Species and subspecies


Scientific name : Tiliqua nigrolutea

Common name : Blue tongue skink

Housing Size : 48" x 24" x 24"

Housing Type : Forest and field, semi-deserts

Adult Size : 7" to 24"

Care/Keeping : Keep singularly, as a pair or in a group with only one male.

Level Of Difficulty : Easy to Moderate

Life Span : Up to 20 years

Diet : Omnivorous


Housing

Hatchlings can be kept in 10 gal. Adults require at minimum 40-55 gal tanks; these lizards are wide-ranging inthe wild and so do better in much larger enclosures. Substrate can be clean dust-free pine (not cedar) shavings, aspen shavings or cypress mulch. Most prefer snug hides, so hide boxes, rock caves or half logs will be needed.

While these are ground dwelling lizards, they do have to clamber over things to get their relatively large bodies over things with their outlandishly tiny legs and feet. Many seem to enjoy the exploration and exercise climbing over and through things gives them, so providing different levels of branches and logs for them to climb on will make for better adjusted lizards. This also means that top-opening tanks need to be securely fastened, and open-top tanks need to be deep enough to prevent the skink from climbing out.

One area of slightly damp substrate should be kept, or a humidity retreat box (into which they can freely climb in and out, filled with damp sphagnum moss or a loosely piled damp towel, for use during shed periods).


Water

They should have a bowl of water available at all times. They may defecate in it so it should be checked regularly. Bowl should be big enough for them to climb easily in and out of if it is to be used for bathing.


Light

Regular exposure to UVB wavelengths are strongly recommended. This can be furnished by close proximity to a Vita-Lite or Zoo Med Iguana or Reptisun fluorescent lights (5.0+) or direct sunlight. If using the latter, be sure that there is a cooler retreat for the skink to go to. They do not tolerate very high temperatures and can easily become prostrate by the buildup of heat in their enclosure.


Temperature

The overall gradient should range from the mid 70s on the cool side to the mid 80s on the warm side. A warmer basking area, with temps well into the 90s, must also be provided during the day. Depending on the type of skink and its place of origin, some will do better with basking areas into the low 100s, while others need basking temps in the low to mid 90s. Observe your lizard for signs of temperature related stress, and adjust accordingly.

A people heating pad under the tank at one end, and a radiant heat source overhead at the same end, will generally be all that is required to establish the necessary gradient. Cold winter weather outside will require additional heating or a stronger bulb in the enclosure. Temps should not be allowed to fall below 70 F at night on the cool side.


Diet

Blue-tongues are omnivores, consuming both plant and animal matter. Their diet should be about 60% plant and 40% animal. A basic mixed vegetable salad can be prepared similar to that fed to green iguanas. Along with the salad, thinly sliced greens (collards, dandelion, escarole) can be mixed into the mixed vegetables.

Hatchling skinks can be started on mealworms, redworms, small crickets, and pinkie mice. As they grow, increase the size of the prey (small earthworms, Zoophoba larvae and pupae, fuzzies and crews).


Handling

Blue-tongue skinks are very docile, curious lizards. They tame easily and are handleable by careful small children. They do develop claws, and while they don't particularly scratch, it can be startling and scary to someone who is nervous holding them, so always supervise people closely when first handing the lizard to them. Like many omnivorous and carnivorous lizards, blue-tongues find that wriggling human fingers look an awful lot like small wriggling mice...and may try to eat one if they are hungry. As with all such reptiles, it is best to wash your hands before handling them if you have been handling anything they normally eat.


Article source :











Posted by SivLOTD at 9:23 PM 0 comments
Labels: ,

African Fat Tailed Gecko




Introduction.

The Fat-tailed gecko is from the subfamily Eublepharinae. Members of this subfamily include the leopard gecko of Iran. This subfamily has clearly different characteristics from other geckos. They are terrestrial, nocturnal, have moveable eyelids, have vertical pupils, and no adhesive lamellae (sticky feet).

The Fat-tailed gecko is found in West Africa, from Senegal to Cameroon. Their habitat is dry and arid, although they will spend most of their time in a dark, humid hiding place. In captivity, it is important to provide these geckos with a source of humidity that mimics these conditions.

The Fat-tailed gecko will grow to be 6 to 10 inches. Females being 6 to 8 inches, and males being 8 to 10 inches. They will live 15 to 18 years. The normal colouring is brown and tan stripes, with a possible thin white stripe along the length of the back. The under belly is pale pink or off-white.

The Fat-tailed gecko is equipped with the natural defense of being able to lose their tails when attacked by a predator. The tail is also where they store their fat, an important energy reserve. If the tail is lost the new tail will look more similar to the head (fat and stubby), and may not match the coloration patterns of the body of the gecko. With its tail, an African fat tailed gecko can go days on end without food.

The Fat-tailed Gecko is medium-sized among geckos. It comes from the Sahara desert.




Scientific name : Hemitheconyx caudicunctus

Common name : African fat tailed gecko

Housing size : 48'' x 24'' x 24''

Housing type : Desert

Adult size : total 8 - 10 inches

Care/Keeping : Keep singularly, as a pair or in a group with only one male.

Level Of Difficulty : Easy

Life Span : up to 18 years

Diet : Insectivores



Habits

Fat tailed geckos are nocturnal. They are usually quite docile though they can be shy. Never house males together.


Appearance

Fat tailed geckos show two main patterns -- one with a white stripe down back, and one without. They come in several colours, with dark and light brown being most common. The most notable feature is the large, thick tail (used for fat storage).


Tank for Fat Tailed Geckos

A 10 gallon tank is probably sufficient for a single fat tailed gecko, but larger is better. Hides, logs, cork bark pieces, rocks, and plants can be provided.


Substrate

Orchid bark, cypress mulch, coconut fiber bedding, or peat moss can be used for a substrate and will help maintain humidity. Hides, logs, cork bark pieces, rocks, and plants should be provided for fat tailed geckos.


Temperature and Humidity

The daytime temperature gradient should be around 80-90 F (27-32 C) but can drop to 75-80 F (24-27 C) at night. Undertank heating is preferred, although a heat lamp (a nocturnal bulb works well) can be used as well if needed. No UV lighting is necessary. Humidity should be quite high (over 50%) and maintained by misting several times a week and providing a shallow water dish at all times. A humidity retreat is also a good idea (e.g. a small container with damp spaghum moss inside).


Feeding Fat Tailed Geckos

Fat tailed geckos can be fed primarily on crickets and mealworms, although adults can be offered the occasional superworm or waxworm. Prey should be always be gut loaded prior to feeding, and dusted with a vitamin supplement containing calcium. Adults can be fed every 2-3 day, and juveniels every 1-2 days. Provide a shallow dish with water as well.


Article source :






Posted by SivLOTD at 2:51 PM 0 comments
Labels: ,
Subscribe to: Posts (Atom)